Two signs at Little Beach share delightful Gumbaynggirr stories of the Goanna sisters who made the Sea, and turned a badly behaving young man into a Mopoke. The sisters left their crossed yam sticks at Split Solitary Island, and became stars in the sky. A second story shares how Tiger Cat, the bad brother-in-law, was turned to stone by the Koala Brothers to make the distinctive headlands at Scotts Head.
We climbed Elephant Headland for the views, before dropping down onto Wakki Beach. A good swell was rolling in and crashing onto the rocks and beach. A new sign at the parking area above Wakki Beach proclaims the route across Scotts Head is called the Goanna Trail.
The headland path is promising to start, easy to follow, with honey scented eucalypts in full bloom attracting nectar feeders. Orbweavers have spun traps between casuarina. Resin oozes from dogwood.
The path becomes narrower, overgrown, and more technical, but snatches of pink tape reassures us we are still on track. Eventually we drop onto an empty Middle Beach, where rainforest meets the sand.
We had planned to walk from Scotts Head to Grassy Head campsite near the Macleay Arm and back, but someone forgot to check the tides. Who me? That large swell was washing into the sea cave on the headland on Middle Beach, blocking our progress. We admire the pandanus growing on the cliff, while we debate our options. Over? Around?
But someone felt lazy (who me?) so we headed back instead. Unfinished business, will have to return at low tide.